For my second case study, I have chosen to discuss the alteration of this 1980’s dress made by Caitlin Trantham, a woman who redesigns thrift store clothing in her spare time. The dress features a black skirt that falls to the ankles and a red top with long sleeves, rose detailing, and what appears to be metal links that connects the two sides of the bodice. Caitlin altered the piece by hemming the skirt much shorter, allowing it to fall just below the knees. She also cut off the sleeves, removed the metal links at the bodice, allowing the two halves of the top to meet in the middle and create a nice V-neck, and added bows at the sleeves. Just like with the antique buffet cabinet, Caitlin made some major alterations when redesigning this dress, making it an interesting object to discuss.

Arguments against alteration

• You’re altering a piece of history

• You’re changing the structure of the piece

• Modifications cannot be undone

Like with the buffet cabinet in my first case study, the fact that Caitlin is forever changing a piece of history by redesigning the dress stands as a major argument against altering it. Likely, very few—possibly none—of these dresses remain in the world. Moreover, many of the changes made to the dress alter the overall structure of it, like removing the sleeves and redesigning the bodice. These changes will be difficult to undo, if not impossible. By making these modifications, Caitlin forever altered a piece of history. 

Arguments For alteration

• Clothing is meant to be worn

• You’re taking an old style and making it modern

• Buying and altering vintage clothing is more ethical than purchasing new

The original dress that Caitlin found at a thrift store fits awkwardly on her. The waist looks too big, the sleeves too short, and the skirt falls shapelessly down her body, landing at an unappealing place by her ankles. I want to remind you that, while this dress may be vintage, a piece of history or nostalgia, it was also made to be worn. It should fit and look flattering on the owner. The modifications that Caitlin made—changing the length of the skirt, removing the sleeves, and taking in the waist—made the dress look much better on her. Moreover, the alterations allow the dress to appear vastly more modern than it previously did. While the original dress appears distinctly 80’s, Caitlin’s redesign can easily be worn by a person today while still maintaining a vintage look with some of the design details, like the roses along the bodice. By altering the dress to look more modern, Caitlin has turned it into an article of clothing that can actually be used, rather than sitting in the back of a closet or at a thrift store. Furthermore, by shopping at a thrift store and upcyling old clothing rather than simply buying new pieces that look retro, Caitlin practices sustainable, environmentally friendly shopping. The overbuying of clothing, especially from fast fashion companies, has become a major issue in the West. People buy clothing that they do not need and just end up throwing out, leading to an estimated 84% of clothing in America ending up in landfills. Sustainability is a major concern for many people, with 1 in 3 consumers in 2o21 caring more about sustainable apparel than they did before the pandemic and 45% of millennials and Gen Z saying that they refuse to buy from non-sustainable clothing brands. However, new clothes marked as sustainable seem to be on the decline. Purchasing secondhand at thrift stores and altering the clothing to fit has become a popular alternative and is a great way to combat this waste crisis.